Herb · Apiaceae
When to plant dill
Dill has a long taproot and is easier to manage when sown where it will grow. Decide whether you want soft foliage or mature seed heads, because keeping plants for seed extends their time in the bed.
Sow direct
0 weeks after
Counted from your last spring frost.
Days to maturity (estimate)
40-60
From sowing to first harvest; cultivar and conditions matter.
Frost tolerance
Half hardy
How much cold the plant itself will take.
Choose a place for estimated dates and local climate checks.
Timing, in frost-relative terms
These offsets are the starting assumptions used by our calendar for dill. They do not establish suitability in every climate. Your seed packet, cultivar and local growing advice take priority; in frost-free places the calendar uses monthly temperature patterns instead.
- Sow direct 0 weeks after the last frost.
- Expect 40–60 days to maturity, counted from sowing.
- Sow again every 21 days for a continuous supply.
Getting the timing right
Use a sunny, drained position sheltered from strong winds. Tall plants in shade or overly wet ground may flop; a support can prevent stems from breaking while you correct the growing conditions. Sow small batches for a continuing leaf supply.
Frost tolerance
Check the named variety and local forecast before exposing young growth. The catalog cold-damage figure is a reference, not a guarantee: plant age, acclimatisation, wind and the duration of a freeze affect damage.
Classified as half-hardy, with a catalog cold-damage reference of -4°C (24.8°F)24.8°F (-4°C). Exposure duration, growth stage and acclimatisation change cold tolerance.
Before you plant dill
Use the calendar to plan ahead, then check the conditions in your own garden.
- Measure the soil at sowing depth. Aim for at least 10°C (50°F); the calendar estimates soil warmth from air temperatures and cannot measure your bed.
- Check the local overnight forecast before planting out. Delay planting or keep protection ready if frost is forecast, even after the historical last-frost date.
- Use the maturity range on your seed packet when choosing a variety. Cold, short days and transplant stress can make harvest later than the calendar estimate.
Direct-sow for leaves, then reserve plants for seed
Use a sunny, drained position sheltered from strong winds. Tall plants in shade or overly wet ground may flop; a support can prevent stems from breaking while you correct the growing conditions. Sow small batches for a continuing leaf supply.
For seed, let the heads turn brown and dry before collecting them into a bag or tray that catches loose seed. Remove unwanted heads before they shed if you do not want volunteers. Leave enough healthy foliage on plants still intended for seed production.
What to record this season
Which sowing supplied leaves longest, and when did the seed heads become dry enough to collect? Add the cultivar, sowing date and conditions to your growing record so you can compare next season.
Further reading: NC State Extension: Anethum graveolens . General crop guidance; local dates on this site are calculated separately. Source checked 19 September 2026 by Safe to Plant; this is not an expert review.
The reference describes plant identity and cultivation. Its regional calendar months and hardiness observations do not validate the calculated dates for another location.
How the dates are calculated and their limits · Keep a growing record · Report a local discrepancy